Running the Eternal River

By Brad Parsons

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It was eight minutes into our first run in Rome, the air was cold enough to keep your lungs awake. The city was moving above us, crazy drivers, people, pigeons basically pacing us, while the riverside path stayed weirdly calm. Then we rounded a stretch where you can see Castel Sant’Angelo ahead. For a second, you forget you’re just out for a run. You’re jogging toward a fortress that once held popes, prisoners, and power, with the Vatican sitting nearby like it’s no big deal. It’s the kind of moment where

you’re breathing hard, trying to keep pace, and at the same time thinking, I am really doing this in Rome.

That same day, my friend Will Stokes and I pitched a simple idea we’ve wanted to stick to all semester: wherever we travel, we have to get at least one run in and record it on Strava. No tickets, no planning, no reservations, just shoes, a route, and whatever the city gives you. Strava turns it into more than a workout log. It’s a record of where we’ve been: the weather, the pace, the distance, and the random details you’d never remember if you didn’t attach them to a run.

This first Rome run started right outside our dorm. It was January 18, around 4 PM, and it was cold enough that you felt it the second you stepped outside. We walked along Viale di Trastevere toward the river, cutting through the neighborhood and heading for the water. Getting to the actual path is part of the experience; Rome doesn’t just hand you a perfect running trail at street level. We found a large staircase that drops you down from the road to the riverside, and once you’re down there, the whole vibe changes.

The Tiber path is exactly what you want when you’re in a new city and don’t want to think too much about navigation: wide, flat, and easy to follow. No constant intersections, no stopping every block, no stress about getting lost. You can settle into a rhythm and actually run. Another surprise was how empty it felt. The streets above were busy like usual, but down along the river, it was mostly quiet—just a few runners, cyclists, and people walking. It made it easy to run side by side with Will, talk while moving, and keep a steady pace without dodging crowds.

We didn’t start with a turnaround point. We basically said, “Let’s run until something feels like the spot.” That turned out to be the best part because it made the run feel like an exploration rather than a planned workout. We kept going, watching the river, passing under bridges, and seeing the city from below street level, the same Rome, completely different angle.

Eventually, we reached the area near Castel Sant’Angelo, and that became our natural stop. Running past it is hard to explain without sounding dramatic, but it genuinely doesn’t feel real in the moment. You’re mid-run, a little tired, focused on breathing and pacing, and then there’s this massive structure right next to you, built for defense and control, sitting along a river you’re casually using as your running route. It’s one of those moments where you can tell there’s a ton of history in front of you, even if you can’t name all of it on the spot.

Even though it was probably the best possible first run in Rome, there were a couple of downsides. Parts of the path had a noticeable amount of trash, and there were also a few bikers we had to watch out for and step around. I also made the mistake of running in my Stan Smiths, which felt fine during the run but left me with knee pain afterward, so I would definitely recommend actual running shoes if you plan to use this route.

If you’re staying in Trastevere (or anywhere nearby), this is one of the easiest runs to do early on. It’s simple to get to, easy to follow, and gives you a different perspective on the city. And for us, it was the start of a semester-long goal: recording one run in every place we visit.